Our hands were 3D printed, and we used plastic mold manufacturing to construct a basic one-sided cast. Now we're going to take things a step further with a two-sided injection mold of the same item, and we'll explain why in a second.

As a rule of thumb, if a section of the dee can't be pulled out of the table, you'll need to have two sides of the dee on each side, as well as the ability to open it up, so that you may remove this part of the dee. This is true for those who build space pistols or other props that don't fit neatly into any one category, such as those made of rubber or those that don't fit into any one category at all.

As a stunt prop casting a "yes," that's utilized in the movie, you may have it if you wish. Today, we'll be making a prop. The Adams shop enables us to duplicate props that Adam himself has produced, which I think is awesome. We're going to make a prop today. Adams gives us the opportunity to re-create what he produced. This is a lightsaber, not a space pistol or a space sword.

Is this clothing on purpose for today? Because it's the lightsaber from the Return of the Jedi, I think this is Luke's. Adam informed me he created it himself as a nod to The Empire Strikes Back. Adam informed me he constructed it from scratch, drawing inspiration from a Star Wars prop exhibition from 1995. Before the release of the prequels, he attended the 1995 Star Wars prop display in San Francisco, where George Lucas donated all of the items.

He took several photos. The lights in this photo seem to have been fabricated by him; he shot a slew of photos like this. Is this what we want to create? Because of all these small grooves and all these little so, if you want to sub-mold on it, that's the greatest.

Because of this, I believe this is the greatest method for creating a mold. If I want to make a yes, what is the first step? There will be no seam line on the front half of the mold, therefore I've decided to put this foam core mm-hmm on the side of the mold so that I don't make a seam line on it, right?

As long as you don't cut the mold, there will be no seam line in a single piece mold since it's flat-bottomed. Yes, once you start utilizing a mold that is made up of two components, you'll have to think about how it's constructed. In order to pour the resin in, as though we're going to pour the resin into this flat bottom section. It's simple to pour the resin into this flat bottom section because we can roll it up and roll it around since we can roll it around.

Once the air bubbles have been dissolved, you may remove the seam line without creating any casting issues or mold issues. When it comes to molding, it's similar to acquiring expertise in one and watching how other people make their molds in order to learn from them. What I've learned is that it doesn't matter if I don't get the parting line to the parting line on top if I don't get that parting line on top. It doesn't have an effect on the mold in any way.

There's no doubt that silicone is a great place to begin. As a result, it's simple to get started with silicone since it's so forgiving. For two molds, you don't make them one by one. You have a place for it, you spoke about it so that it has a place, you talked about it. Okay we'll turn it over and pull out the clay before pouring it into the second side got it so I'm using water-based clay since I can work quickly with it, but you can also use soft oil-based clay for this. Clean clay was a trademark of Tzer's, which is no longer in operation, but it has been trademarked by other firms.

The oil-based clay won't dry out but this water-based clay will. Since I don't want to leave it overnight and return to a cracked or dried product, I know I need separate it alright but how can I accomplish that?