Possessing burnished his culinary abilities during the kitchens cách làm cà muối xổi of Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Nobu Matsuhisa, the chef Chris Cheung returned to the meals of Manhattan’s Chinatown, wherever he was born and raised, to build his relaxed East Wind Snack Retailers in Brooklyn. In “Damn Fantastic Chinese Foodstuff,” his first cookbook, Mr. Cheung is your information to Chinatown (as he was for Anthony Bourdain) and its lively markets. His book outlines gear and procedures, and provides fifty recipes for dishes within the Chinese American canon, several with refinements. These consist of pungent sweet and bitter pork Peking fashion; three cups cauliflower, which cleverly swaps out the usual rooster for your vegetable; designer egg drop soup; briny black bean clams; pork belly bao buns; and a lot of, lots of dumplings, outlining the Chinatown pedigree and his particular take. Be prepared to use MSG; Mr. Cheung can make a cultural argument for it.

“Damn Good Chinese Food stuff: Dumplings, Egg Rolls, Bao Buns, Sesame Noodles, Roast Duck, Fried Rice and even more” by Chris Cheung (Skyhorse Publishing, $26.ninety nine).

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