This was no challenge. Once the plate arrived, a shock addition was a doorstep of bread, which acted as the foundation stone. Spears of milky white salsify ended up tucked under meaty fish fillets, generously lined in glossy inexperienced twiglets of samphire. "Scrumptious," was K's verdict. "An actual assault about the senses." The salsify, she said, tasted just like a sweet onion, with the feel of soppy turnip, whilst the samphire and pickled cucumber included salt and sharp notes. The…