A miter saw is the device for projects that need precise lumber as well as moulding cuts-- particularly angles. The device called for cutting miters does so a lot more.

Types of Miter Saws

With a board flat on the base of a miter saw, any kind of angled cross the large face counts as a "miter" on any type of miter saw. Turn the board on its edge, location it against the fence, and also you'll reduce a "bevel." Most saws reduced from 90 to 45 levels in both directions, as well as some saws can cut up to 55-degree angles.

Saws begin to vary when you look at their blade diameter-- typically 10 inches or 12 inches. The larger the blade, the much deeper and also larger its optimum cut. Typically, a 10-inch miter saw will certainly reduce a 2 x 6 at 90 levels and also a 2 x 4 at 45 degrees; a 12-inch miter saw will certainly reduce a 2 x 8 at 90 degrees as well as a 2 x 6 at 45 degrees.

Saws likewise differ by whether the blade arm merely revolves (a standard miter saw) or both swings as well as slides (a moving miter saw). The sliding action can cut also larger boards. A 12-inch variation, as an example, will cut a 2 x 16 at 90 levels and also a 2 x 12 at 45 degrees.

Either can end up being a substance saw-- the blade arm both swings at an angle as well as tilts at an angle to the bed of the table to reduce both a bevel as well as miter at once. This is primarily made use of to reduce crown moulding.

Reducing with a Miter Saw

The cut angle and also wood density determine where the blade will get in touch with the material. When marking a board, prolong the line throughout the supply, drop the blade to the wood to inspect your alignment, as well as readjust the board as required prior to beginning the saw.

When you're cutting a board, remainder majority its size on the saw. If the board is as well long, pile a few scraps beside the saw to sustain the looming board. For a timesaving option, install your saw on a saw stand with supports for long stock.

Location the stock versus the fencing at the rear of the saw base, and hold it with your hands (or a clamp) a minimum of 6 inches from the blade. Only then should you start the saw.

Always maintain your other hand on the saw take care of. Both arms should be straight out in front of you, as well as your feet strongly grown.

Never cross your arms when operating the saw.

Start the saw at the top of the operating position, permit the motor to come up to speed, as well as bring the saw down right into the timber. When the board is cut right via, release the trigger as well as enable the blade to completely quit prior to you raise the blade.

Learn the kinds of cuts you can make with a miter saw. View our DIY Basics video:

Two Time-Savers

You can speed up recurring cuts in two means: Rather than independently gauging parts for identical short cuts, note the component size on a piece of covering up tape affixed to the fence. After that eliminate the tape when you're done.

With the saw unplugged and also the blade down, action from the blade teeth to a factor on the fencing equal to the component size.

With the end of a board pressed gently against the block, make your cut. Each component you reduced after that will be the exact same size-- just blow away any type of sawdust that can stack up against the quit block.

Quick Tips for Miter Saw Success

• Always reduced the factory end from a board before gauging and reducing a part for much better fit and also less sanding.

• Let the saw do the work; do not compel the blade via the wood.

• More teeth equates to smoother cuts. Make use of a blade with more than 50 teeth for building cuts. For great cuts, such as moulding, make use of a blade with more than 90 teeth.

• Treated lumber normally has a higher moisture web content than building and construction lumber, so use a lower tooth matter also for fine cuts. The open areas in between the teeth clear the debris and put less stress on the electric motor.

• Ideally, reduced one angle end of a part prior to you mark and reduce the contrary end.