Growing cannabis is not a game, and you couldn't master it until you learn about its lifecycle. Read here to learn more.

Growing cannabis is an art that takes patience. Only growers who understand the science and the plant life cycle will be successful to have best terpenes for sale. The rest either fail miserably or give up. It is not uncommon for beginners to miss their first cultivation. And since the practice makes the perfect man, just keep going until you collect the big pile of weed you've always dreamed of getting.

I swear it's worth it. But first of all, you need to understand how the plant develops. This will not only save you time, but also get you back on your feet even if you are having difficulty. So, let's take a look at the life cycle of the autoflowering cannabis plant to make the whole situation just a little easier for you.

GERMINATION

The first stage of the plant cycle begins with germination. Now that you've got your favorite seeds, it's time to plant them. People use different methods to germinate seeds, but it's important to find the method that's right for you.
Ideally, the seeds should be soaked in a glass of water for at least 24 hours. Some growers use a nail file to gently scrape off the seeds before soaking them. This ensures that the seeds absorb more water, but better not try it if you are a beginner.
The seeds can then be transferred to a damp towel and stored in a pouch (or sealable plastic bag). In 1 or 2 days, the root emerges and the seeds will be ready for planting. Note that many growers place their seeds directly in the soil and skip the germination stage entirely, and you can follow the same path if you prefer.

SEEDLING STADIUM

The seeds can be transferred to the soil at this point. It may take another day or two for the seeds to come out of the ground and fully come out of the shell. Be patient and stop playing with it. You might be tempted to assist the seedling as it looks so fragile, but it will be fine without your help. Also remember to regulate the pH level as it is also very important.
The seedling stage is the most important stage. It will take a long time for the plant to recover if there is a mistake at this point, so be extra careful. If you are growing indoors, hang the lights at least 40cm above the seedling. Reduce the distance as the plant grows. CFLs, LEDs, MHs, and HIDs will do as long as the seedlings are comfortable in their surroundings.

THE 1ST TO THE 3RD WEEK

Seedlings start with only two leaves. After a few days, a third leaf will appear. If the plants are growing in the soil, the plants do not need nutrients for the first week. For those who grow in hydroponic facilities, reduce the strength of the nutrients by half to allow the plants to adapt to them.
You are more likely to kill plants by overwatering them. Not a myth; it's a fact. So, take it easy when it comes to watering. And, be sure to provide enough water to keep the soil moist. Also, don't leave it like a lake, but also not too dry. As the photosynthesis process proceeds, new sets of leaves will appear.

Seedlings get a little stronger in the second week. You can now start giving it nutrients unless you use pre-framed organic soil. Again, the nutes should be light because the plants are still very fragile. The distance between lights and seedlings should be reduced if the seedlings become lean.

By the third week, the seedlings show more leaves appearing. Most autoflowers will display their gender at this point, but if you've planted feminized seeds you won't have to worry at all. However, if you are using regular seeds, it is important to distinguish between male and female plants.

While the female plants show their pistils, the males will produce small balls of pollen. It is a good idea to remove the males as we prefer sensimilla heads (without seeds). The nutrients can be used in normal dosage now, but be careful to check the plants for any nutrient burn. Young plants will suffer even with low doses of fertilizer or nutrients, but they will not recover from a severe nutrient overdose or burn.

THE 4TH TO THE 6TH WEEK

This is the phase that determines the size of the plants. You can use several training techniques including LST, Topping, and FIMing to increase yields. Many growers make the mistake of introducing flowering nutrients as soon as the plant produces a few pistils, but this is the wrong way to go about it. It is not because the plant displayed its penis that it started to flower.

Note that the plant is still in the vegetative stage and the nutrients must be supplied at full strength. It also depends on the type of fertilizer you are using. For example, if you have organic growth, use organic nutrients according to the manufacturer's directions, but make sure they contain nitrogen.
If you are using a brand containing two parts of Growth and Bloom fertilizer, only use the Growth part in the 4th week.

Most brands of fertilizer provide NPK numbering for your convenience. For example, if you are using Floraseries from General Hydroponics, only FloraGro and FloraMicro (micronutrients) should be used during this phase.
Remember to adjust the pH level constantly when using nutrients, but if you use something like Advanced Nutrients' pH Perfect, for example, the pH can take a back seat.

Week 5 will start with the plants producing lush leaves with a few buds slowly appearing. Continue with the “Grow” nutrients even at this stage, unless you want the plants to stop growing vertically. This is the stage where a growth explosion occurs and you need to support it with nitrogen. Using more phosphorus or potassium at this point will force the plant to focus more on the buds than on the growth.

Many growers use the flowering nutrients as soon as they enter the 5th week because they are happy with the growth of the plants. Some plants, like Green Crack and Gorilla Glue, tend to grow very bulky. You may therefore be tempted to use flowering nutes. However, yields can drop dramatically if the plant does not have room to reach its maximum potential.

At the start of the sixth week, the appearance of the buds is even more noticeable. A little defoliation doesn't hurt now. Defoliation involves removing extra leaves to give more light to the lower parts of the plant. Do not overdo it, as the plant depends on the leaves for food. Continue with the nutrients intended for the vegetative stage as the plant will propel itself vertically.

FROM THE 7TH TO THE 9TH WEEK

The plant is fully prepared for its flowering phase and the flowering nutrients can be used at full strength. The buds will start to swell and the unmistakable aroma of sweet cannabis will fill your tent. The pistils will slowly change color from white to light brown or red, depending on the strain.

It's also a good idea to use nutrients to boost buds and improve quality. Organic soil growers can use dried banana peels to introduce more potassium into the soil. Vertical growth stops in the seventh week, but the plant will do everything in its power to increase the size of the buds.
As we enter the eighth week, the leaves turn a bit yellow, but don't worry. It is simply a natural way for the plant to indicate that it is approaching the end of its cycle. Continue to use the nutrients for flowering in the ninth week. Do not forget the micronutrients which are added from the second week. Defoliate the plants again if the lower parts of the plant are growing small buds.

FROM THE 10TH TO THE 11TH WEEK

The plant is almost at the end of its life cycle. Stop using nutrients and use plain water to remove any chemical buildup. This practice is known as flushing and is very important if inorganic nutrients are used. Flushing also ensures that your buds do not taste and smell chemicals and dramatically improves the quality of the smoke.

By week 11, all the leaves start to turn yellow. Most of the pistils turn orange, indicating that it is almost time to harvest. Granted, many seed banks, including Fastbuds, tell you that the plant will finish its cycle in 8-9 weeks. Yes, they finish in 9 weeks if you use the flowering nutrients from week 4.

The plants go straight into the flowering phase quite quickly and the result is a faster harvest. However, if you want your plants to grow a little taller, start using the flowering stages only from week six and you will see the difference in yields.

You can now harvest the plants by cutting them all one by one. Use sharp, sterilized scissors to avoid infecting the heads. Remember to use gloves, especially if you harvest Gorilla Glue buds as they really stick.

DRYING AND CURING

This is the last step where the buds are dried and then stored in jars. They will last a long time if you take care of the humidity. Curing comes at the last step, but it's the most important if you want high quality buds. Don't skip this process, because all your work will be wasted if you skip this one.

Last but not the least, wait at least 6 weeks to cure the weed, even if you are tempted to smoke it immediately. It will reduce the hardness of the flower and your lungs will certainly thank you for it!