A miter saw is the tool for projects that call for accurate lumber as well as moulding cuts-- specifically angles. The tool called for cutting miters does so much a lot more.

Kinds Of Miter Saws

With a board level on the base of a miter saw, any kind of angled cross the vast face counts as a "miter" on any miter saw. Transform the board on its edge, area it versus the fencing, as well as you'll cut a "bevel." Most saws reduced from 90 to 45 degrees in both instructions, and some saws can cut up to 55-degree angles.

Saws start to differ when you check out their blade diameter-- typically 10 inches or 12 inches. The larger the blade, the much deeper and larger its maximum cut. Typically, a 10-inch miter saw will certainly cut a 2 x 6 at 90 degrees as well as a 2 x 4 at 45 levels; a 12-inch miter saw will certainly cut a 2 x 8 at 90 degrees and a 2 x 6 at 45 levels.

Saws additionally differ by whether the blade arm simply revolves (a standard miter saw) or both swings and slides (a moving miter saw). The sliding action can reduce even wider boards. A 12-inch version, for instance, will cut a 2 x 16 at 90 degrees and a 2 x 12 at 45 degrees.

Either can become a substance saw-- the blade arm both swings at an angle and turns at an angle to the bed of the table to reduce both a bevel and miter at once. This is mainly utilized to reduce crown moulding.

Cutting with a Miter Saw

The cut angle and also timber density establish where the blade will certainly contact the material. When noting a board, prolong the line throughout the stock, drop the blade to the wood to inspect your placement, as well as adjust the board as needed prior to starting the saw.

When you're cutting a board, rest majority its length on the saw. If the board is as well long, pile a couple of scraps beside the saw to support the looming board. For a timesaving remedy, place your saw on a saw stand with supports for long stock.

Location the stock against the fence at the rear of the saw base, and also hold it with your hands (or a clamp) at the very least 6 inches from the blade. Just after that must you begin the saw.

Always keep your various other hand on the saw take care of. Both arms need to be right out in front of you, and your feet securely grown.

Never ever cross your arms when running the saw.

Begin the saw on top of the operating setting, allow the motor ahead up to speed, and also bring the saw down into the wood. When the board is cut completely with, launch the trigger as well as enable the blade to totally quit prior to you elevate the blade.

Find out the types of cuts you can make with a miter saw. View our DIY Essential video clip:

Two Time-Savers

You can speed up repetitive cuts in 2 methods: As opposed to independently determining parts for identical short cuts, note the part size on a piece of masking tape attached to the fence. Remove the tape when you're done.

For also greater accuracy, affix a quit block. Affix pieces of double-face rug tape to the back face of a 3/4-inch-thick timber scrap. With the saw unplugged and the blade down, step from the blade teeth to a factor undecided equal to the component size. There, press the taped block versus the fence.

With completion of a board pressed lightly against the block, make your cut. Each part you reduced after that will be the same size-- simply blow away any sawdust that can pile up against the quit block.

Quick Tips for Miter Saw Success

• Constantly reduced the manufacturing facility end from a board prior to gauging as well as reducing a component for much better fit and also much less sanding.

• Let the saw do the work; do not require the blade through the wood.

• More teeth amounts to smoother cuts. Use a blade with greater than 50 teeth for building cuts. For great cuts, such as moulding, utilize a blade with more than 90 teeth.

• Treated lumber typically has a greater wetness material than building lumber, so make use of a reduced tooth count also for fine cuts. The open rooms between the teeth remove the debris and put less stress on the motor.

• Preferably, reduced one angle end of a part before you mark as well as cut the contrary end.